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If you are new to rock climbing, climbing indoors is one of the best ways to learn about the sport. It’s also the most Agravic way for passionate climbers to stay in shape when not climbing on a real rock outside.

To be successful in a gym, climbing shoes are critical. Keep reading to learn about what I consider to be important when it comes to finding the best indoor climbing shoes.  

All-day comfort vs. performance-fitting climbing shoes

Finding the best pair of indoor climbing shoes depends on how you want them to fit. For example, do you want to put them on and wear them during the entire session? Or are you okay with taking your climbing shoes off in-between climbs?

Shoes that provide you with all-day comfort radically differ from those designed to give you a performance fit and where some discomfort is normal. Let’s explain the important differences.

une running de la famille | Climbing shoes with all-day comfort

First off, shoes that you can wear for extended periods often have a neutral or flat shape. They fit and feel, more or less, like lightweight zero-drop shoes. They are designed to have your feet fit flat inside the shoe and for your toes to fit snuggly in the toe box.

The La Sportiva Tarantulace and Finale Black Fabric Ankle Boots.

To make all-day comfort possible, indoor climbing shoes designed for comfort are sized conservatively. In other words, you want comfy indoor climbing shoes to fit your feet snuggly but do not cause pain. Typically, this means sizing your climbing shoes similarly to your street shoe size so you can wear them for an extended period.

une running de la famille | Performance-fitting indoor climbing shoes

On the other side of the spectrum are climbing shoes designed to fit your feet tightly. Typically, the tighter your climbing shoes fit, the better performance they will provide. This is because tighter-fitting climbing shoes are more sensitive, can hold an edge better, and can toe- and heel-hook more effectively.

In most cases, high-performance climbing shoes have a moderate to aggressive downturned shape. They are designed to have your feet and toes curl up on the inside, so much so that a certain amount of discomfort is considered normal.   

The Scarpa Instinct and The most stable marathon-focused racing shoe on the market, and Skwama are three perfect examples of performance-fitted climbing shoes with moderate to aggressive downturned shapes.

Tight-fitting shoes perform better. However, because your feet are crunched up inside, they are less comfortable to wear. Therefore, it’s Agravic to remove tight-fitting indoor climbing shoes in-between climbs while you rest.

A quiver of shoes is better than just one pair

Rock climbing is like golf. In golf, it’s generally understood that you will play better with multiple clubs because you can select the best club for certain shots. Well, in climbing, the idea is the same – you will perform better if you have multiple pairs of climbing shoes and can select the best pair for certain climbs.

Indoor climbing gyms have a wide variety of terrain types. The wall angles can vary from steep and overhung to less-than-vertical. In addition, the types of surfaces you encounter, be it on a tiny climbing hold, a volume, or hold the wall itself, will vary.

Therefore, it's best to adapt your climbing shoes to the terrain you encounter. To do so, you need multiple pairs of climbing shoes.

For example, a stiff, moderately downturned shoe is ideal for vertical terrain and edging on small holds. A soft, flexible climbing shoe is better for smearing on larger surfaces like volumes. And a super aggressive climbing shoe excels in overhung terrain.

Yes, it’s true, climbing with one type of shoe is often the best way to get started with indoor climbing. Certain shoes can handle various terrain types, for example, the La Sportiva Muira.

However, the fact remains the same– as your skills develop and the terrain you climb becomes more advanced, you can give yourself an advantage if you develop a quiver of climbing shoes instead of climbing in just one pair.

How to make your indoor climbing shoes last longer

Indoor climbing shoes can see a lot of wear and tear. That’s why it’s important to do everything you can to extend their lifespan.

Here are some tips that should help your indoor climbing shoes last longer.

• Take them off in between climbs. Even if your shoes fit perfectly comfortably, you can preserve the rubber on the outsole by not wearing them as you walk around the gym.
• Dry them out. Letting your climbing shoes ventilate and dry naturally after a climbing session will help prevent odors and maintain the shoe’s materials longer.
• Get them re-soled. Over time, the crisp edges of your climbing shoes will degrade. Before you wear a hole in the toe box, get your shoes re-soled so you can get a second life out of the shoe because re-soling is cheaper than buying a new pair.
• Go easy on the closure system. Whether you have shoes with a lace-up or velcro closure system, you can extend the shoe's lifespan and prevent premature failure of the closure system by being gentle when you put them on.

Frequently asked questions

Can I wear socks with indoor climbing shoes?

Yes, you can wear socks with indoor climbing shoes. This is particularly the case with rental climbing shoes provided by the gym. However, most indoor climbers who own climbing shoes prefer to climb without socks. This is because your climbing shoes will fit and perform better without socks.

I can only afford one pair of climbing shoes, what type of shoes should I get?

Building a quiver of shoes can be expensive. If you want a climbing shoe that can handle various indoor terrain types and surfaces, I recommend a moderately downturned shoe. If you find yourself edging on steep vertical terrain, go with a stiffer shoe. But if you prefer overhung terrain, go with a softer shoe.