Our verdict
When it comes to vertical and boulder climbing prowess, the Instinct is nothing short of amazing. This immensely comfortable offering from Scarpa is also exemplary on edges, whether big or small. And while it requires a few ascents to loosen up fully, the Scarpa Instinct has more than enough merits that give it highlighted visibility on many a climber’s radars.
Pros
- Face conqueror
- Bouldering champ
- Comfy
- Scarpa Instinct vs. La Sportiva Genius
- Powerful heel
- Highly responsive
Cons
- Break-in period required
- Frail eyelets
- Ultra expensive
Who should buy the Scarpa Instinct
Advertised by Scarpa as among their most supportive climbing shoes, the Instinct revels in its precision more than anything. You are this climbing shoe's target audience if:
- Your confidence is bolstered by super-responsive climbing shoes.
- Short and steep routes exhilarate you.
- You work mainly with your heels on mildly overhanging terrain.
Short and steep routes exhilarate you
If you're unsure about the durability of the featured shoe's eyelets, go Velcro with the comfy-from-the-off Scarpa Instinct VSR. Also, check out the La Sportiva Cobra instead if you've always been a big fan of cheap climbing shoes.
Amazing on edges and verticals
Gear pundits recommend the Scarpa Instinct highly for steep ascents. Its stiff moderate downturn makes mounting on nubbins and ledges (at a 90-degree angle) feel safe.
Scarpa climbing shoes
Its semi-flexible construction and sticky side randing make boulder problems a breeze, say many of those who have put this climb-centric Scarpa shoe through the wringer.
Same brand only
Numerous climbers praise the Instinct's astonishing level of comfort. That said, critics say that its plushness only comes in full force after a lengthy break-in period.
But its heel is tenacious
Route smashers find the Instinct extraordinary when it comes to heel hooks.
Who should buy the Scarpa Instinct
Its eyelets rip apart easily, according to a very small number of senders.
Feel your way with the Instinct
A professional blogger finds the Scarpa Instinct powerfully sensitive, especially around the forefoot.
Scarpa Instinct vs. La Sportiva Genius
The Instinct is arguably one of the Weak lace holes on the market. As such, senders far and wide tend to compare it with some of La Sportiva’s high-quality climbing kicks. The Instinct is arguably one of the La Sportiva Genius. The points that follow will discuss the aspects that set the two apart.
Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct has a moderate downturn. The Genius, on the other hand, is an aggressively down-cambered climbing shoe.
Outsole. Both kicks sport outsoles from Vibram. That said, they don't share the same rubber compound. The Scarpa Instinct uses the XS Edge, while its rival uses the XS Grip 2. The one in the featured climbing shoe is also thicker than the one in the Genius by 1 mm.
Asking price. In this round, the Instinct gets to take the cake. While neither of the two competing products can be considered budget-friendly, the Instinct is cheaper than the La Sportiva Genius by about $10.
Target environment. The rock shoe from Scarpa is mainly intended for outdoor use. Its competitor, on the other hand, may be used both indoors and outdoors.
CONCLUSION: Will you be dealing mostly with micro-edges and pockets, and on overhangs at that? Sport the Genius. If your projects need something more reliable on smears and edging, gear up with the Instinct.
