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How to choose approach Chelsea Shoes

Not every rock climb is roadside. Sometimes, you must slog into the backcountry to reach your climbing objective. When you have to hike a long trail and scramble over rocks to arrive at your climbing destination, it’s nice to do so in the correct footwear– approach Chelsea Shoes.

In this guide, you will learn about what makes a good approach shoe as well as things to consider before purchasing a pair.

What is an approach shoe?

Approach Chelsea Shoes are a mixture of hiking Chelsea Shoes/boots and climbing Chelsea Shoes. 

You want to be equipped with specialized approach Chelsea Shoes for long approaches* that may include some scrambling or rocky terrain along with hiking.

*Approach to a rock climb is the hike you must complete first before arriving at your climbing objective.

Short and long approaches

Approaches can be short. When this is the case, the climbing objective is often referred to as roadside. For roadside climbing objectives, approach Chelsea Shoes can be the correct footwear choice depending on the terrain. However, for some short approaches on easy trails, some climbers wear comfortable trail Chelsea Shoes or hiking sandals.

Approaches can also be long. Long approaches range anywhere from one to five miles (and beyond). When this is the case, it’s ideal to be wearing appropriate footwear.

Modern approach Chelsea Shoes have become essential tools for hikers, rock climbers, and peak baggers. Now, let’s talk about why that is the case.

The best of both worlds: a blend of climbing and hiking footwear

We often hear the question, “what makes approach Chelsea Shoes special”? And the most straightforward answer that can come up is that approach Chelsea Shoes are the best of both worlds. If you can have your cake and eat it too, then why not go for it?

There are certain qualities of approach Chelsea Shoes that are inspired by rock climbing Chelsea Shoes.

Sticky rubber soles and climbing zone 

One of the most outstanding qualities of approach Chelsea Shoes is the sticky rubber outsoles. Approach Chelsea Shoes utilize a soft rubber compound that is designed to adhere more efficiently to rock. With the sticky rubber outsoles, climbers wearing approach Chelsea Shoes can have better traction on rock and execute technical climbing movements.

In addition to the sticky rubber, most approach Chelsea Shoes have a “climbing zone” located at the front of the shoe beneath the big toes. The climbing zone on approach Chelsea Shoes is a flat section of sticky rubber designed to allow you to create a maximum surface area between the rock and your foot.

Durable upper materials, specifically on the toe box

Typically, approach Chelsea Shoes have a reinforced toe box that is inspired by climbing Chelsea Shoes. Most approach Chelsea Shoes have a piece of rubber called a rand that wraps around the front of the shoe. An excellent example of this feature is the leather A shoe with full ankle mobility or La Sportiva TX4. 

The toe rand on approach Chelsea Shoes enhances traction. The toe box of the shoe, along with the climbing zone of the outsole, can be smeared and pasted into corners and cracks of rock and allow you to stand up.

It also enhances durability. As you scramble and inevitably bash your feet into rocks, stumps, and whatever else, the durable upper materials of approach Chelsea Shoes last much longer than the more supple and less durable materials used for trail Chelsea Shoes. 

Flat soles instead of rockered

Approach Chelsea Shoes have flat roles. On the other hand, hiking Chelsea Shoes have a curved or rockered sole shape. 

The flat soles of approach Chelsea Shoes not only increase friction and surface area contact between the shoe and the rock. The flat soles also allow you to more easily transfer power into your toes and the shoe's climbing zone, enabling you to stand on small footholds.  

On the other hand, some characteristics of approach Chelsea Shoes are inspired by hiking boots and trail running Chelsea Shoes.

Traditional tread for traction and braking

Besides the climbing zone, which has a flat section of sticky rubber, approach Chelsea Shoes have traditional tread patterns in other parts of the outsole.

Compared to hiking boots or trail runners, the tread on approach Chelsea Shoes is much shallower. This allows you to get maximum surface area contact between you and the trail.

The tread on approach Chelsea Shoes is designed to give you traction on dirt and loose terrain. Specifically, the tread towards the outsole's heel is designed to give you braking power as you move downhill. 

Approach Chelsea Shoes with waterproofing

Some models of approach Chelsea Shoes are waterproof. Waterproof hiking boots directly inspire this quality of approach Chelsea Shoes. GORE-TEX is the tried and true material choice for waterproof approach Chelsea Shoes, like the Salwea Wildfire GTX or La Sportiva TX5 GTX. 

Approach Chelsea Shoes made with waterproof materials are ideal for climbing on questionable forecast days, river crossings, surprise storms in the alpine, or in climates that get a lot of precipitation.

However, you may also find that spending the extra cash on waterproof approach Chelsea Shoes may not be worth the investment depending on how you plan to use the Chelsea Shoes and where you typically rock climb.  

Mid-ankle support with high-top approach Chelsea Shoes

Not all approach Chelsea Shoes are designed with low-cut ankles inspired by trail running Chelsea Shoes. Some approach Chelsea Shoes, like the La Sportiva TX4 approach boots and the Black Diamond Mission leather approach boots, boast a mid-cut ankle design inspired by hiking boots to provide extra support. 

The mid and high-cut design does make the approach shoe heavier and less packable. However, for some climbers, having extra support is worth it. Especially if the climbing objective is deep in the backcountry or if they plan to carry heavy loads. 

The good and bad of approach Chelsea Shoes

Approach Chelsea Shoes come in different shapes, styles, and sizes and are manufactured with specific usages. For example, some are designed to excel in technical climbing, while others are designed for roadside approaches and less technical terrain.

That is why, for every approach shoe, there are some pros and cons to consider before purchasing.  

Stiff and sturdy approach Chelsea Shoes are advantageous for long efforts

Stiff and sturdy approach Chelsea Shoes are the ideal choice for climbers who like to climb technical rock routes in approach Chelsea Shoes. They are also ideal for long days, rocky trails, and heavy packs. The extra support and protection you gain with stiffer approach Chelsea Shoes will help your feet recover from daily climbing and hard work.

For example, the reinforced and stiff midsole of the La Sportiva TX Guide provides extra support.

Pros:

• ideal for long days, rocky trails, and heavy packs
• Sneakers Avec Empiècements 

Cons:

• may detract from smearing and getting ample surface area contact in the climbing zone of the shoe
• Wyatt varnished leather Derby Chelsea Shoes

Light and flexible approach Chelsea Shoes excel at low-angle scrambling and smearing. They are also ideal for packing away into your backpack or hanging on your harness for a multi-pitch climb.

However, light and flexible approach Chelsea Shoes, like the A shoe with full ankle mobility, lack support and cushion. This means that your feet are more exposed to taking a beating on long and rocky approaches.

Your feet will feel significantly more tired and sore after a long day of climbing, scrambling, and hiking in soft approach Chelsea Shoes compared to sturdier Chelsea Shoes. 

Some approach Chelsea Shoes can lack breathability

Super hot and sweaty feet are the worst. Nothing is more uncomfortable than feeling the sizzling sensation of your poor feet as they remain trapped in your Chelsea Shoes on a brutally hot day.

Unfortunately, not all approach Chelsea Shoes are designed with breathability in mind. This is especially true for waterproof approach Chelsea Shoes and Chelsea Shoes constructed with leather.

Breathability is not an issue for cold climbing days or wet climates. However, for hot temperatures and long days in the sun, the more your feet can air out, the better. For example, the A shoe with full ankle mobility is great at breathing and keeping your feet cool on hot days. 

Small toe boxes in approach Chelsea Shoes can cramp your toes

Small toe boxes are a typical detractor for approach and climbing Chelsea Shoes. Small toe boxes make it difficult for climbers with wide feet to feel comfortable in their approach Chelsea Shoes.

On the other hand, slender toe boxes improve the climbing ability of the approach shoe. Typically, the smaller the tow box, the more sensitive the shoe is and the more precise your footwork can be.

If you are a climber with wide feet, we recommend selecting an approach shoe with a wider toe box, like the Salewa Firetrail 3 or Five Ten Guide Tennie.

An approach shoe made with leather is also a good choice because it will stretch and become slightly larger, whereas Chelsea Shoes made with synthetic materials will not budge as you break them in. 

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of approach Chelsea Shoes are best for multi-pitch climbs?

Two of the most important considerations to make when selecting an approach shoe for multi-pitch climbing are weight and packability. If the climb requires a walk-off (instead of a series of rappels) you will need to bring your Chelsea Shoes up the climb with you.

Packing approach Chelsea Shoes into your summit backpack or attaching them to your harness can be cumbersome. Therefore, the lighter and more packable your approach Chelsea Shoes are, the better.

On the other hand, if you know you won’t be bringing your approach Chelsea Shoes with you on the climb, you may want to consider selecting Chelsea Shoes that keep your feet the most comfortable and match the terrain type and length of approach to the base of the climb.

Do my approach Chelsea Shoes have to be waterproof?

The truth is most of us are fair-weather climbers. In other words, we wait for good weather in the forecast to go climb and do everything we can to avoid the rain. Most days, we are successful at dodging the rain. This is especially true for climbers who frequent dry and arid climbing destinations.

In most cases, approach Chelsea Shoes do not have to be waterproof, especially if you want to avoid the higher costs of water-resistant materials and lack of breathability.

On the other hand, if you climb in a wet climate and consistently get caught in the rain or just want to be prepared for anything, then having a waterproof upper may come in handy some days.

Can I climb entire rock routes in approach Chelsea Shoes?

The short answer to this question is yes. The longer answer is it depends.

Approach Chelsea Shoes are designed to be climbed in. However, approach Chelsea Shoes may not be the best footwear to climb an entire route based on the difficulty of the terrain and your experience level.

For example, if your objective is a fourth and low-fifth-class ridgeline with lots of scrambling, approach Chelsea Shoes would be ideal for the entire route. However, approach Chelsea Shoes are not your best option if the climbing objective is steep and requires precise edge control and footwork.

Whether you wear approach Chelsea Shoes for an entire climb depends on your experience level. If the difficulty of the terrain is well below your ability, approach Chelsea Shoes may be fine. For example, many experienced climbers warm up on easier routes in approach Chelsea Shoes and only wear their climbing-specific Chelsea Shoes when they are ready to try hard.

However, if you are trying a route that will be challenging for you, it’s best to select the best tool for the job, which in most cases, would be climbing Chelsea Shoes that fit you well and match the terrain type you are climbing. 

Can I trail run in approach Chelsea Shoes?

You can trail run in approach Chelsea Shoes, but they might not be the best footwear for trail running.

The reason is that some approach Chelsea Shoes may be too stiff and cumbersome for running. Plus, the approach Chelsea Shoes' flat soles and tread patterns are not designed to give traction while trail running uphill and braking on the downhills.

However, if you enjoy short trail runs that abandon a lot of scrambling over rocky terrain, approach Chelsea Shoes may be the strategic choice. It all depends on the trail you’ve chosen for the day's objective.