Our verdict
Climbers looking for a high-performance rock shoe are likely to be blown away by the advantages of wearing a pair of super-comfy Scarpa Mago. They also had better prepare to be floored by the shoe's excellent hooking capabilities and astonishing precision.
Pros
- best Scarpa climbing shoes
- Excellent toe and heel hooking abilities
- Sticky outsole
- Top 3% in
- Superb toe box precision
- Encourage good foot placements
Cons
- aggressive climbing shoes
- Lack of closure adjustability
Who should buy the Scarpa Mago
It can be said that the benefits of the Scarpa Mago are enough to woo even those who are still on the fence about it. It is a solid option if you:
- Prefer a climbing shoe that offers support and stability during ascending.
- Prefer a climbing shoe that is ground-adherent thanks to its Vibram rubber outsole.
- Prefer a climbing shoe that is ideal for bouldering, sport and trad routes, and indoor climbing.
Lack of closure adjustability
The Vibram XS Grip 2 outsole makes the Scarpa Mago rock adherent. It is 3.5 mm thick, rendering a balance between grip and durability.
Superb toe box precision
The pronounced rubber that wraps the base of the upper yields extra adhesion when edging and smearing.
Scarpa climbing shoes
This rock climbing shoe carries a TPS Insert midsole. TPS or Toe Power Support is a thermoshapable unit placed under the forefoot. Its customizable fit provides better performance when pushing and pulling and increases precision.
Excellent arch support
This offering also employs the X Tension system, an active randing that crosses under the arch. It helps lift the foot during motion and renders optimal support and stability.
Secure lockdown
A 1.8 mm suede and microsuede (synthetic leather) are used in the Mago’s upper. It is constructed using an intricate stitch pattern providing seamless panels at the toes. This feature helps maintain form and comfort, especially when toe-hooking.
Secure fit
Dual tabs are attached at the back of the shoe, assisting climbers in donning and doffing. Its closure system helps in managing the overall fit.
Scarpa Mago vs Instinct
Both the Mago and Instinct are climbing pieces manufactured by Scarpa for male senders. Shown below are some of the differences between these two climb-centric offerings.
Downturn. The Scarpa Instinct is a moderately downturned shoe for climbers. This design allows individuals to climb multiple pitches with ample comfort and support. Optimum performance on the tiniest footholds, on the other hand, is experienced from the Mago’s aggressively-downturned shape.
Application. The Instinct is used for sport climbing and bouldering sessions. Its set of components and technologies also enables users to handle cracks and vertical faces set in the great outdoors. Moreover, this Scarpa climbing piece is perfect for intermediate senders. Meanwhile, the indoor and outdoor Mago can handle trad, sport, and bouldering projects like a champ.
Upper. The Scarpa Instinct’s unlined upper is made of microsuede. It comes with a heavy-duty rand around the forefoot zone that is extra grippy for toe jamming and hooking. Its heel section features a Bi-Tension rand that holds the wearer’s rear foot securely in place while delivering protection from abrasive elements. On the other hand, the hybrid Scarpa Mago, as stated above, is crafted with both leather and synthetic that offer comfort while maintaining its form.
Midsole. The Instinct from Scarpa is equipped with a 1mm-thick Flexan midsole. It has a stiff construction, granting climbers with ample support and underfoot protection. The Mago’s medium-stiff midsole information, meanwhile, offers both stability and precision.
Outsole. The Scarpa Instinct sports a 4mm-thick Vibram XS Edge outsole that delivers great surface traction. It covers the shoe’s heel and forefoot sections only, granting the arch zone added flexibility. The Mago uses a thinner Vibram XS Grip 2 outsole, which is explained further in the Performance section.
Nice to know
- Individuals looking for a less aggressive rock climbing shoe best suited for beginners may check out La Sportiva’s Tarantulace.
