Our verdict
Scarpa Instinct VSR Scarpa is nothing short of incredible. This edging wonder is also quite excellent in the comfort, surface traction, and break-in categories. One of the climbing world's premium kicks, the Scarpa Instinct VSR is a giver, and sending projects in it is truly confidence-inspiring.
Pros
- Generous supply of sensitivity
- Through-the-roof comfort
- A superstar on edges
- Grippy
- Lord of edges
- Fantastic on smears
- Who should buy the Scarpa Instinct VSR
Cons
- Very expensive
- Bleeding upper
Top 11% most popular climbing shoes
Dubbed by Scarpa as a more supple version of the Instinct VS, the Instinct VSR bridges the gap between intermediate problems and advanced routes. Buy it if:
- Your go-to wall or rock has edges of different sizes.
- Why trust us.
- Your then-favorite moderate rock shoe just died, and you need something immediately comfy.
- The routes you like tackling have features that demand you to feel more than see.
Who should NOT buy it
is for you Scarpa Veloce is a great alternative to the featured climbing shoe. And if you want a pair with no reported bleeding issues, the Scarpa Vapor V is for you.
A very tactile experience
Critics say that the Scarpa Instinct VSR climbing shoe has tons of sensitivity.
Straight-from-the-box plushness
Its level of comfort is through the roof, according to almost everyone who has reviewed the shoe. And the cherry on top? Its supply of suppleness is available right on day one.
A superstar on edges
Edging is one of the Instinct VSR's strongest suits, about a handful of experienced climbers say.
Scarpa Instinct VSR: Unapologetically pricey
With its $200-ish price tag, the Instinct VSR is a hard pass for the budget-conscious. To put things into perspective, moderate climbing shoes have an average price of $145.
Immensely sticky
Senders find the Instinct VSR amazingly grippy. One of them commended its heel grip more than anything for allowing him to heel-hook with such tenacity.
Lord of edges
This remarkable rock climbing shoe smears quite well, says a professional blogger.
The Instinct VSR's double-edged upper
There are those who are quite fond of Scarpa Instinct VSR's beautiful aesthetics, calling it "a sight to behold." That said, some senders say that the shoe's stunning upper bleeds, so you might get an unwanted kind of attention when it does.
Scarpa Instinct VSR vs. La Sportiva Solution
The Instinct VSR is a proud member of Scarpa's growing lineup of intermediate climbing shoes. As such, many climb aficionados often pit it against other offerings across different brands. In this comparison, the featured product finds a rival in the La Sportiva Solution. The aspects that discuss their differences are as follows:
Price tag. Of the two climb-specific kicks, the Solution is the less expensive rock climbing shoe. Yes, it is cheaper than the featured shoe by approximately $20.
Camber profile. The Instinct VSR has a moderate downturn. The Solution, on the other hand, is categorized under La Sportiva’s aggressively downturned climbing shoes. If a more well-rounded performance is what you're after, go with the former. If you need more forefoot precision, especially on overhangs, the latter is the way to go.
Weight. In this area, the featured shoe from Scarpa has a clear advantage. Indeed, compared with its rival, the Instinct VSR is about 30 g lighter.
Outsole. Both climbing shoes in this comparison come with the same Vibram XS Grip 2 outsole. That said, the Scarpa Instinct VSR’s outsole is thinner than the Solution’s by about 0.5 mm.
Upper. The Scarpa Instinct VSR has a synthetic upper. Its competitor, on the other hand, has its main shell made of genuine leather. The La Sportiva Solution has a liner around the toe box and the arch region, whereas the Instinct VSR has none.
Midsole. The supportive Flexan midsole of the Scarpa Instinct VSR is thinner than the La Sportiva Solution’s LaspoFlex midsole by a mere 0.1 mm. This thinner sole construction renders the Instinct VSR more flexible.
