Our verdict
“A scene-stealer on various holds” may very well be the most accurate description for the Niad VCS. Its well-roundedness also translates to you finally being able to send semi-challenging problems without feeling the need to reach for a different pair. While it is not without an Achille’s heel, this 5.10 offering—as long as it lasts—has enough aces to keep you spidering through various routes (especially indoors).
Pros
- Sticky toe rubber
- Edge master
- Comfortable right from the get-go
- Remarkably sticky
- Glove-like fit
- Breathable
Cons
- Lack of toe rubber durability
- Not great for overhang terrain
Lack of toe rubber durability
The Excellent edging performance is the latest evolution in climbing shoes built with Five Ten´s iconic heritage and legendary performance. Climbers stated that this climbing shoe helps them to push their limits. They mentioned that it offers sufficient power for edging and sensitivity for smears. Climbers were also amazed at its out-of-the-box, all-day comfort, and standard-setting performance.
updated May 4, 2023
Climbers stated that the rubber around the shoe’s big toe loses its pointiness easily and it is not great for overhang terrain. If you are looking for a climbing shoe that offers climbing precision without sacrificing comfort, you might want to check out the Evolv Rave.
Notable Features
- Tension transfer from the heel to the forefoot provides edging performance on even the smallest of holds.
- Lack of toe rubber durability.
- Moderately stiff midsole supports all-purpose climbing while maintaining sensitivity.
- Easy on and off with snug fit thanks to a dual hook-and-loop closure.
Excellent edging performance
Climbers mentioned that the tension transfer from the heel to the forefoot provides edging performance on even the smallest of holds.
High-Friction grip
Climbers see that it is grippy and durable. They mentioned that it provides plenty of grip on smears. They also stated that it provides awesome edging capabilities, so you'll be scaling any wall with confidence.
Same brand only
With its low-profile midsole, climbers commended this shoe because it offers greater sensitivity underfoot. They really 'feel' the rock underfoot, making for a better climb. They mentioned that it ensures your foot with enough support and in the right places.
Sticky toe rubber
Climbers stated that this shoe has a straight construction. It trades toeing power for enhanced smearing prowess. Also, climbers mentioned that the shoe's sticky toe rubber covers almost the entire forefoot and gives them more toe-hooking coverage.
Comfortable and snug fit
The Five Ten Niad VCS uses a synthetic upper which climbers mentioned that it provides comfort and support, wrapping around the foot nicely without slipping.
Also, climbers stated that the textile lining wicks away moisture and evaporates it quickly to ensure the foot remains comfortable.
Additional Info
- NIAD actually stands for “Nose in a Day.” The nose is a popular big wall on El Capitan, which climbers all over the world attempt to send “in a day” as a rite of passage.
- NIAD VCS is launched alongside two other kicks: The NIAD Moccasym and the NIAD Lace.
